All of our bikes have details and features that you may at some point need to know, torque settings, cable replacement, the percentage of vanadium in the titanium etc.. You will find these below as well as in the information/warranty details when you bought your frame.
Your new Kingdom frame is built to be tough and handle any abuse thrown at it, but due to the stresses endured by mountain bikes you should regularly check key areas of your frame for signs of fatigue, specifically; the welds, gusset and down tube. In the unlikely event of any issues, your warranty covers your frame and crash replacement is there if the fault does not lie with us.
Fork usage -The frame warranty covers the Void for forks from 140mm to 160mm travel, your frame may have had a custom axle to crown in which case the frame is covered for those specific fork and their travel.
Seat post Insertion - We recommend a minimum seat post insertion of 40mm below the top tube on all frames.
Brake usage - The frame is able to fit a rear rotor up to 203mm and using standard tab brake adapter mounts or post mounts depending on model.
Headsets - The VOID uses either of these headsets depending on model:
Trail SHIS: ZS44 to EC44 or Mountain ZS44 to ZS56
We recommend using a light grease (Tunap 113 Brake paste or Ti Prep) on insertion of headset cups. Recommended minimum insert for both headset cups is 11mm.
Bottom brackets - The bottom bracket shell is T47 specification please remember when inserting you BB that titanium is hard and can be sharp it is very easy to cross thread an expensive BB so insert slowly with lots of grease.
Brake compatibility - Your frames rear brake tabs have been checked with a SRAM caliper/mount/rotor. This test involves fitting and tuning the brake to work correctly, the yellow sticker on the frame denotes that it has passed this test and is within tolerance for SRAM/Shimano brakes. But we have found some UK brake brands brake mount adapters have inconsistent anodizing on the mounts and less tolerance between the brakes pads. This may lead to brake rubbing and conclude that the brake tabs are not aligned correctly but this is not the case. If you are using SRAM or Shimano brakes you will not encounter this problem.
Contact points - Titanium is sharp and can bind with other metals so you must liberally apply ti-prep, Tunap 113 Brake paste or assembly compound in contact areas and not normal grease. If you use normal grease it will wear the parts and may seize and cause failure. If this happens it may affect your warranty.
NOTE: use Ti-prep on the shock mounting fixings Torque - When tightening titanium threaded parts make sure they are lubricated with ti-prep or they may bind and you will receive an incorrect torque reading.
IMPORTANT PIVOT MAINTENANCE
Main Pivot Bolts - as it is a single pivot it is important to regularly check these and they should be done up to 8-10Nm to avoid damaging the alloy hex insert. When tightening pivot bolts loosen the cinch bolts first and re-tighten after the pivot is fastened. Cinch Bolts on Pivot bearings - check these regularly to ensure these do not fall out they should be tightened up to 6Nm they are to secure the bearings if they’re tightened over this it may pinch the bearing surfaces and cause wear.
The pivots are printed titanium and must be maintained - failure to keep the pivot and cinch bolts at a correct torque and using the bike can directly lead to failure (ovalisaztion/damage) to the printed pivot part in such cases of damage warranty to that part of the frame will be voided.
Your frame is made from certified aerospace grade Ti3AL2.5V. For the technical minded that’s: 3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium and 94.5% Titanium.
This grade of titanium is used for missiles, fighter jets and submarines due to it’s high anti-corrosion properties mixed with a tolerance to extreme heat. It will not rust or corrode and has a very slow fatigue rate which means it will more than likely last as long as you can ride it.
Cleaning is easy, you can use normal water and detergent without any problems. To return the titanium to its natural luster and original appearance you can use acetone spirit and a rag to wipe down the frame, always removing any excess after cleaning. After washing always check and drain any water from the seat tube as water can reside in the bottom bracket shell and eventually corrode bearings.
Check the welds and key stress areas regularly. Titanium is a very strong metal and does not fatigue in the same way as other frame materials, but the stress to failure threshold when exceeded is very fast so it is important to regularly check your frame for signs of damage. If you find damage, get in touch with us as soon as possible.
Magic Scotch-Brite - Your frame has a raw finish so the welds are exposed, should you which to bring it to a polished finish use a Scotch-Brite pad in a circular motion around the tubing.
1. Decide the entry and exit hole for the cable. If you’re running UK (left side rear brake), we recommend running the left brake hose round the front of the head tube and into the right hole in the top tube, and vise versa for rear dérailleur cable. The brake hose and gear cable then cross over in the top tube and exit the opposite side.
2. Insert a (new folded in the middle) inner gear cable into the exit hole. Push the cable along the top tube until it reaches the end. Then insert a J-spoke into the exit hole and hook the folded gear cable with the J part of the spoke. Pull the gear cable out of the hole with the J spoke. (A gear and J-Spoke are included with the frame).
3. Once out, separate the gear cable and pull one side of the folded gear cable through the frame whilst holding the other ‘nipple’ end. Tape it to the top tube so it doesn’t slip back down the tube.
4. When the outer gear cable or brake hose is ready, insert the inner gear cable (from step 2) into the end of the gear outer cable or brake hose (depending on what cable you’re installing).
5. Feed the inner gear cable guide and outer cable (or hose back) into the hole and down the top tube using the inner gear cable as the guide. Exit the cable through the exit hole, but don’t pull the inner gear cable too hard as it will come out of the cable outer and you’ll need to start again. You may need some needle nose pliers to grab the cable outer as it exits.
Once internal routing is installed your brake or stealth dropper will need bleeding.
VOID routing - As the VOID has routing into the chain stays you should always route away from the BB. So from the BB to brake/gears, then continue into and out the down tube.
IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO ROUTE THE CHAINSTAYS IN THE DIRECTION TOWARDS THE BB VERY IMPORTANT:
Always leave enough cable/hose under the BB to allow for full suspension compression.